JJ's JournalWEDNESDAY MARCH 30, 2011
Travelled to the south west of Addis Abba by ETFF van through rolling hills of Ethiopian Highlands and then off into the mountains about 40 km. on rough, rocky, steep- sloped mountain road up to 2600 metres. Along the way, students carried banners of welcome. A school within the district was the site of one of the current projects. Arrived at Acheber Forestry Project with local official and Yoseph Assefa, the ETFF Country Representative and a forestry technician who guided the group through understanding how ETFF does their work. Basically, they offer free, highly valued fruit trees to farmers if they will become the custodians of other trees which are planted as part of reforestation efforts. Yoseph explained the characteristics of the trees being planted. Some deforestation is being caused by removal of trees used for manufacture of mainstream pharmaceutical medical products. However, general deforestation is caused primarily by over harvesting. Sapling trees of various kinds were presented to school students for planting at the project. BOYS SHOW UP SEEDLINGS After returning to Addis, riders were hosted for dinner and slide show presentation at house of Demissew Gedarmo, ETFF co-founder and Pres. of Administration and Huila Ibsa, the forester for the ETFF support group in Ethiopia. THURSDAY MARCH 31, 2011 Not in optimum shape yet The last of the 15 riders arrived today. Most riders visiting Mercado today, the second largest market in Africa. Not me. Doing internet communications to get final website information in place. Then get going for a bike ride in advance of tomorrow’s departure north bound to Lalibela. Huffed and puffed up steep-sided roads into Addis Ababa, and knew I was in trouble, having just emerged from a Sault Ste. Marie winter with little chance of becoming fit enough prior to Ethiopian trip. Tonight we go to a restaurant for dinner and cultural presentation. Day ONE….FRIDAY APRIL 1 DEPARTURE DAY 95 km to campground The grind begins The usual first day, scramble to depart with packing and vehicle organization for the first time. Did not get on road from Lido Hotel until at least 10:30 am. Departure time was compounded with an event. A “welcoming” local, among many watching us depart, skillfully removed my wallet from the tail rider bag, with me standing right there holding the bike, not more than 24 inches away. I felt a little bump and this guy passed very closely walking away. Eric commented on seeing this. I looked down to my bag and sure enough, the top zipper was partially We had been buying coffee from a street vendor so anyone watching would have seen me removing my wallet and replacing it. Besides, it could have been collusion with the street vendor, one big happy scam….by the time I put my bike down to follow, he was gone around a corner………..about 600 Birrs (Ethiopian currency), and documentation like drivers license, credit cards and birth certificate……….a bummer start. After that it was many kms. of polluted travel through the city to eventually emerge on the other side of Addis Ababa into the rural area, beginning our journey north to Lalibela. First days are always tough on your body. UP THE HIGHLANDS You can’t drink enough electrolytes or eat enough energy bars to have enough power, so you just hang in. The lunch truck did not show up, supposedly still packing in town. Very scenic and beautiful, long climbs and descents took us to 8,500 feet for camping. Arrived late, camped in the school yard and ate dinner in one of the classrooms. Day TWO….SATURDAY April 2, 2011 89 km School yard on top of mtn. Riders had a lot of fun with the kids, showing them how to ride mountain bike and blowing up soccer balls for play. Again a late departure, about 9:30 am after a good breakfast. The first half of the day was rolling terrain. Then the hills became very long ups and downs. The final climb into the camp was brutal. Camped near the top in a school yard at 10,500 feet, the highest we will be on the trip. The Ethiopians along the way are very friendly and love to see you gesture and say “salom”. I arrived in camp tuckered, but it was better than day 1, not experiencing cramps during the day. Lunch truck did not make it again because they had a problem fueling up. Finally they met us on the road delivering a sandwich. Ethiopian Highland scenery is spectacular, offering extensive vistas at every turn. Cooks slaughtered a lamb for consumption at dinner and successive lunches. Day THREE…SUNDAY April 3, 2011 117 km School yard soccer pitch This was a very big SURPRISE day. Briefing was to see baboons 2 km from camp, enjoy a very long (10,500 ft.) downhill from our campsite for the first half of the day, go the rest of the day over moderate terrain to camp at 85 km. SURPRISES FOLLOWED!!!!!!!!! The 25 km downhill became a spectacular 40 km downhill with unbelievable views. Arriving at the tunnel, a guard said it was closed because of construction. Roger showed up shortly after and the two of us convinced Chinese superintendent to let us through. Unknown to us, riders were taking another detour route over the top of the mountain on a rock road. On the other side, a few turns down, other riders were emerging from the detour. Everyone expected to eat lunch at 55 km. There was no lunch truck for the first riders. One sandwich for those who waited or showed up late. When we got to 85 km there was no campground. The riding went on and on, and we finally ended up in a school yard area at 117 km. Hordes of kids. GIRLS SELL ORANGES Soccer team eventually shooed them away. Jean presented soccer balls, courtesy of the tour. Shower at house in town. Riders very tired, waiting for dinner at 8:30 pm. Went from high altitude down to about 3,000 feet. Road being built by Chinese. Day FOUR…MONDAY April 4, 2011 92 km Departed boisterous school yard camp. Kids arriving in waves. Great day for cruising, going down most of the way. Great scenery, wind at back Stopped many places to chat and to see interesting things. Rode through the Kimissie Valley, an extensive agricultural and cattle raising valley which looked in the distance like the Okanagan Delta. Day FIVE….TUESDAY April 5, 2011 91 km To school yard Camped at 1,550 m, 5,000 feet. Big climb 25 km Big valleys Big vistas Thunder storm came through during supper, forcing us to run to salvage tent. (Prior to leaving YYZ, we had reorganized our baggage to reduce pounds and left rain cover behind.) Relocated to covered portal which was dry, but not a lot of air for the night. However, survived well with a decent sleep. Passed through town of Kembolcha prior to 25 km climb up to town of De. Day Six…WEDNESDAY April 6, 2011 93 km To another school yard 10 km climb out of camp, then up and down all day long. Maxed out one downhill at 75 km speed. Arrived at camp quite tuckered. The last 15 km were torturous, with the final 2 km the beginning of tomorrow’s 25 km climb. Still 2 more days to Lalibela. Today, there were a few injuries and many concerns of inconsiderate local youths. I had a chain suck incident that caused me to be tied up with a gang of kids at the bottom of a hill, struggling to get chain free from small sprocket. Finally got it done by loosening the small sprocket.. Day SEVEN…THURSDAY April 7 93 km School on top of mountain Started at 2,000 meters, went to 3,300 m and ended up at 2,800 meters at the school. 9000 feet. Riders met prior to the school at a café and hung around for an extended period. Then most left to find the school and get set up. The school supervisor met us and some negotiations with Scotty were necessary. Time dragged on and finally we set up tent, but soon thereafter we were beset by a thunder storm which we thought would pass. NOT SO!!! Luckily, I had asked school supervisor if we could use a class room if rain continued. This one lingered and intensified. We gave up waiting and went to the cook’s room to wait it out, then when it went on and on we thought we should go to the tent to make sure we had protected everything. We sat in tent kind of dozing, checking out the leaks. Big rain…thunder…never stopped…tent became sodden…tried to sit it out and gave up ….retreated with our bags through the rain to class room where we slept on dirt floor. Left behind a sodden tent with mud and water all over the floor. During the afternoon, meeting students, it became apparent that these 800 + students in number were from a very poor region, with malnutrition evident from their teeth and gums and other facial features. Day EIGHT…FRIDAY April 8 62 km 7 Olives Hotel Lalibela After changing from road tires to mtn. bike tires, we loaded soggy tent and damp bags into truck and were pretty well the last to depart. Even though supervisor said they could get along without classroom til 10, he was pretty anxious to see us vacate as students were hanging around, waiting. I gave supervisor 100 birr for the privilege of using class room, which really saved our butts, and he prepared a letter showing all the things that the school needed. He made a point of explaining how desperate for money the school is. Departure was on rocky dirt road down into the Highlands with multiple layers of mountains and valleys in the distance. Total down was about 15 kms and you had to really work to stay under control in the rapidly changing road surface conditions. Frankly, I was not feeling excited about hard peddling up rocky roads. I was pooped from the week. Came across some riders getting tea and coffee in small nondescript roadside café. More riders, then film crew and we had ourselves a party with many locals looking on…………tea and then a traditional Coffee was exceptional. Finally back on the road again with some severe dips that shoved you right down to lowest gear. Struggled all the way. Finally on to the last 10 km of pavement, which turned out to be 15 km of pavement. 10 km climb up to plateau where it appears Lalibela is located. However, not so lucky right away. Road continues up and down until you finally come to the hotel, part of the main square in Lalibela. Very tired. Got settled into decent room with bags and began recovery of equipment from storm the day before. News came that Scotty hit a girl; she was OK, but both in the hospital. Scotty had stiches on top of head and many other abrasions. Didn’t see him til after supper. Hotel is quite nice on hill overlooking town. Day NINE…SATURDAY April 9, 2011 Visited rock-hewn Churches in Lalibela and learned about their inspiration and construction starting during the 1100’s AD. Day TEN….SUNDAY April 10, 2011 Pilgrims flocked to the Lalibela rock-hewn church, Bet Medhane Alem, and we were allowed to view the ceremonies. We climbed all over the surrounding rock, entered the church and hung out with swarms of worshipers. Chanting, rock kissing, and overall Coptic Christian religious ceremonies to God led by many priests. Was very inspirational. In a church purportedly crafted by the hands of angels, this is a very raw and powerful form of worship. You can help JJ “st JJ has placed “sticks” signed by Sault Ste. Marie donors on tree planting projects in Ethiopia. You can donate and sign your stick at the Reception desk at Algoma’s Water Tower Inn & Suites at 360 Great Northern Rd at 2nd Line. One hundred percent of funds raised go to the Ethiopian Tree Fund Foundation.
DAY ELEVEN….MONDAY April 11, 2011 Transfer to Mecale 200 km., Yohanes Hotel Drove back through the 60 km. of rock-laden windey, bumpy road back to Gashana and north to Mecale. Very high mountains and valleys …….extreme vistas. Some heavily forested areas that Demmiseu said were re-forested through a government program. Arrived late in Mecale. Very tired. The plan was to get up early in the morning and transfer luggage and bikes to 5 Toyota land cruiser vehicles, to attack the Danakil Depression Desert. DAY TWELVE…TUESDAY April 12, 2011 Transfer to Danakil, Campground with camels in town of Barakile. Intentions of departing by mid-morning gradually evaporated. Soon it was mid- afternoon and we still were not on the road.
The idea was to reach the edge of the Danakil Depression and then to ride down along the 40 km.. descent into the town of Barahile. However it was approaching dark at that point, so we could not do the ride and still arrive during daylight. So we continued to camp in the village, beside hundreds of camels, unloaded of their salt-block burden which had been moved into the salt exchange building. It was hard to grasp the extent of the camel population DAY THIRTEEN...WEDNESDAY, April 13th Scotty needed footage for film of riders descending into the Danakil Depression, so he came up with the idea of taking a “select few”…(6 riders back on the road we came along the day before)…to ride the 45 km.s. to do the filming. We got up early and re-organized the bikes, leaving many riders’ noses out of joint because they were not included in the so called “select” group. However I was one of the “select” and it was an absolutely wonderful experience, mostly down from the perceived edge of the Danakil Depression through Afar villages, transitioning beautiful hills and escarpments, back to our camp at Barahile. The riders who did not go were miffed. All they got to do was to wander through the salt exchange warehouse, and to be shown some of the town. So, add the issues of a lost day of riding yesterday on to the fact that most riders had not ridden for a second day. and there were many unhappy campers. DAY FOURTEEN…THURSDAY April 14, 2011 Camp at Hamd Ela Rode bikes down the river bed and trail which the camel route follows to deliver the salt to the exchange in Berahile. This was challenging and tiring single track for the first 20 km., winding down That being said, the riding was quite challenging with multiple river crossings and many rock infested sections of trails. It was fun, it was an adventure and in most riders’ minds, it was epic bicycle single track. We were to look for an “obvious” village located at the 20 km.. mark, which turned out to be not so obvious, because several riders ended up further down the river and had to be retrieved for the lunch under a small shaded area made by a rock outcrop. Daily instructions continued to be confusing. There were no official briefings, only a serendipitous way of arriving somewhere together. We were to continue on to the camel trail and down a road…it was not clear where or what came first. Then we were firmly into the Danakil Depression environment. Temperatures pushed over 40 degrees. The sun was high and hot. I brought my companion, Jean, along and we followed the so-called camel trail with other riders eventually out of sight. Jean and Frank were out of juice. I was having a hard time navigating the rocky trail and fizzling under the hot sun. In observing the horizon, I noticed that camel caravans were apparently on the road or somewhat in that direction. I decided we should hike across a rock strewn terrain with bikes to reach the road, which I felt would give us a better chance at getting water and transport. It was really hard motivating us all to reach the road. But, we did get there after a 30 min. hike. It was the best choice. Continuing down the road, Frank got ahead and then was stranded under a tree waiting for support. He was out of water and mused that he had picked the tree to die under. Jean loaded into a support vehicle for the journey to camp. Others were in various forms of distress along the way. I pushed on, very happy to get to the end of the 40 km. journey for the day and very hot. Our camped at Hamd Ela for the next few days, right on the camel caravan trail; we saw hundreds of camels moving right through the camp in morning and afternoon. When you never see camels back home, it now seems all the camels in the world are at your doorstep. DAY FIFTEEN…FRIDAY, April 15, 2011 Camp at Hamd Ela It was supposed to be a 20 km. out and 20 km. in return day….a romp into the heat to see the sulphur lake, and some other unique land features. We booted it for 20 km. along a washboard gravel road and across some salt flats to get there. Along the way we passed a drilling rig which was operated by Allana Potash, a Saskachewan company that has rights for mining this vast salt flats area. According to Tim on site, buy shares now!! The potash is located between 400 and 900 meters, is unique in the world in that 3 types of potash are all located in this one region. He points far into the horizon in all directions, saying the land lease is enormous and when built, the mine will have a 100-year life. He forsees a big city being built and very large infrastructure evolving to support the mine. Continuing on, we arrive at a bubbling salt water pond with many unique formations, then on to a much larger bubbling sulphur lake with extraordinary colours from greens to blood reds. Only pictures can tell the story. Continuing on, we go for lunch under some volcanic spires, and by this time it is high noon and hotter than hell…with riders grumbling about having to ride back to camp in excessive temperatures. Most take the challenge; however after 10 km., it becomes a crisis for many, including myself, when we hit a damp area which turns out to be the type of soil that sticks like glue to your bike. It is so sticky, wheels stop turning even when you are dismounted and pushing the bike by hand. I have to finally give up 5 km. prior to the camp. I cannot believe how this thick, grimy mud secures itself to your riding equipment. At camp, I half heartedly pick at the mud in between dozing off from exhaustion. Other riders are showing advanced cases of debilitation from the excessive heat, from the lack of planning and from physical challenges caused by diarrhea and other kinds of physical breakdown. DAY SIXTEEN…SATURDAY , April 16, 2011 Hamd Ela camp Got a late start, intended to be 7 am so we could beat the heat of the day; did not get going until 8 or so. Guides Michael and Scotty stuck with their plan to take us back across the black muck area. foolishly convincing themselves and…I guess the riders, that we could somehow traverse this area without encountering such impossible sticky mud conditions. Naturally, once again it became a crisis. When my bike would no longer move, I loaded it for a lift across the mud onto the solid salt surface, then began picking at it enough to continue the ride. Riders were really pissed. Temps were again up to the high 40 degrees centigrade. It had once again become “the heat of the day”. Currently, this vast region is covered mainly with a hard salt crust which is removed and made into blocks, loaded onto camels and taken 3 days away to the salt exchange. Much of this salt is used for animals. We visited the mining area where the two or three inch salt sheets were pried from the ground and cut into blocks through back-breaking work using very primitive tools. Then we continued on to bubbling suphur ponds and the volcanic spires. I had had enough, and just decided to load the bike on to a vehicle and take the ride back to camp. Every night at this camp you are mesmerized by the great number of camel caravans passing right past the camp doors. Just after sun is settling and starting to cool, they are loaded and heading for the exchange 3 days away. As one group moves out, in the valley close by, hundreds of more camels are amassing, getting to move into the mine area first thing in the morning to be loaded and head back through our camp in the evening. DAY SEVENTEEN…SUNDAY April 17, 2011 Volcano base camp Toyota caravan through the desert to volcano village base camp. More rough desert conditions, travelling about 60 km. and getting all shook up. Had to stop to get permits from Afar (local tribe) access point. By the time we got to camp it was late afternoon. --rider dissent and discussion about volcano trip, times to get up/go down/stay on top overnight?? Getting kind of crusty. Riders are rumbling. Finally, after peripheral issues were addressed, everyone decided to get up very early in the morning and stay overnight at the volcano. DAY EIGHTEEN….MONDAY, April 18, 2011 Volcano edge camp
It was generally very humid and hot and windy, especially overnight. The main volcano lava lake is spherical in shape and a bubbling red mass about 50 feet below the edge. The last eruption was during October 16, 2010 when the lava overflowed onto the surrounding rim. There are steam vents all around the area, and a second much larger hole a little higher in elevation which emits steam vents from several locations ….no bubbling lava. It erupted 20 years ago. Other local areas have erupted as recent as a year ago. All around this particular volcano field there is evidence of former eruptions; this volcano is only one of many in the region that are part of the fault that goes through the extent of the Rift Valley in Africa, where the plates severed from the Red Sea. This remains a very ancient and active volcanic area and seeing this huge pool of 1000 to 1100 degrees centigrade bubbling lava…essentially rock and sulphur… is humbling. We used an Afar rock hut for our sanctuary, staying inside during the day and sleeping outside in an adjacent rock walled area overnight. The wind gusted strongly all night long. DAY NINETEEN…TUESDAY , April 19, 2011 Motor trip to Lake Afrera. Camp beside lake Reversed the process and got up at 4 am for early morning descent to base camp. Nice cool hike. Overnight, when getting up, you could see the red glow from the lava lake volcano which seem to be bubbling more than normal. Nice glow to wake up to in the morning, prior to sun rise. No breakfast until at base camp and out of gas for cooking. Another brutal desert ride in Toyota Caravan to get to Lake Assault. Witnessed salt-evaporization process; facilities span many miles along shore of lake. The access point where we are camped is crowded. Salt water is pumped from the lake into evaporative ponds where it is scooped and bagged for Ethiopian use and we are told perhaps for roads in Canada. The camp ground is bracketed with two streams; one is hot salty water and the other is hot fresh water. Makes for a good wash. Many campers swam in the salt water lake which is quite large. Dinner in town because no gas for cooking and late arrival. The next morning we met Professor Mauro Rosi, who is a volcano specialist, purportedly the world expert from University of Pisa. He wrote a book that I hope to access in English when I return. DAY TWENTY….WEDNESDAY, April 20, 2011 Motor trip to Mecale, Yohannes Hotel Brutal 14 hour ride on rough desert roads to arrive late at about 9:30 pm. Felt pretty bad bouncing around in Land Cruiser all day. Our driver was tough to hang in. Stopped at a couple of interesting villages, picked up some gift goodies. At last village stop, we were told some drivers did not want to continue in dark with only about 40 km. to Mecale….big conference….finally on the road…were allowed past driving curfew check point to continue the trip. My ass is busted but we did reach Mecale in one long Land Cruiser day. |
Visiting an ETFF project
unzipped. 
coffee ceremony.
Our tour leader, Scotty, was fighting with everyone about terms of rental for vehicles, about getting water and food, and about skills and information from guide Michael who he had just met. It was truly chaotic. The bikes, luggage, food, water and people, including some military and police not anticipated, far exceeded the capacity of the vehicles that were reserved. One more was requisitioned, then another, making it a convoy of 7 vehicles.
through canyon walls made up of ever-changing geological formations and rock types. It was a picture-taking moment every 5 minutes, especially because donkey and camel caravans were encountered frequently.
Got up at 3:30 am to beat the heat. 15 km. hike up the mountain took 3 hours. Very hot. Jean on camel. Took a tour of 2 volcano sites prior to 11 am and then decided to stay covered in hut until it cooled later in the day. Basically zonked out and bided time.