DAY 107
Sunday November 18TH
Geobeidian to Beijing
85 km
Well, here I am in Tiananmen Square….EFI…after traveling since August 4th from Istanbul, Turkey, across central Asia and China to arrive here in Beijing today, November 18th with 10,800 kilometers showing on my odometer. What an experience this has been! I spent 107 days traversing Asia and I hope you have enjoyed the duration of the trip with me. Zai jian, (good bye) for now.
A triumphant, fit and thrilled JJ Hilsinger.
DAY 106
Saturday 17
Baoing to Geobeidian
65 km
It was a short day to get us lined up for arrival in Beijing tomorrow and about 80 km to go. A lot more agricultural activity was apparent on both sides of the road. It was zero or so in the morning, so lots of clothing was needed to stay warm even though sun was breaking through the pollution layer and was not just a dull glow. Visibility seldom more than 1 kilometer although looking out the hotel window, it has picked up measurably since arrival at noon. See you in Beijing.
JJ and travelling partner Jean
Vedova enjoy the end of a long
cycling journey from Istanbul Turkey
to Beijing, China.
DAY 105
Saturday November 17
Baoing
DAY 104
Friday November 16
Shiziazing to Baoing
145 km
All the negatives prevail, 1 km visibility in almost constant pollution, acrid and choking at times. Traffic continued congested in towns especially for the first 30 km.
Bundled up heavily and remained that way for most of the day in zero to +5 degree C temps.
One near miss. I was trying to make sense out of an overhead sign, making the mistake of focusing on one thing. I looked down just in time to miss a truck by a few feet that was traveling opposite direction on my shoulder lane. Whew…scared the bike too!!
Bright spots were clear skies, this time with the sun more than dimly visible through pollution and tail wind for the afternoon which pushed me along on a long day. I guess we are trying to get as close to Beijing as possible so the last day, November 18th is quite short.
I tried to divert myself from the traffic noise and other distractions by enjoying the trains going by on the mainline railway which is paralleling our route. Took no pictures….too cold to get the camera out and pollution too thick. Not much to look at except the show on the road.
DAY 103
Thursday Novemebr 15
Xingtai to Shiziazing
120 km
A cold front went through overnight dropping some rain, so roads were wet in the morning. Good for me, it did not rain during the day. Temperatures and head winds were cold, which kept many riders to half days or off the road. One result from the cold front was it cleared the pollution somewhat, that is, until we got to Shiziazing where we were on smog alert again. I was able to see the terrain around the route under grey skies, which meant that I saw lots of decrepit buildings or terrain damage and vast agricultural fields.
In trying to find something good about the day, I started thinking about the run-down, abandoned and unadorned buildings and streets I rode by. If there was no multi-lane highway or sophisticated rail track like there is now, could I dissect the old from the new and get a feeling of what this part of China was like 20 years ago?
Entering Shiziazing, there was kilometer after kilometer of street market down both sides of the road, making the route a continuous obstacle course. The entire 5 or more km was made up of small industrial, commercial supply companies, which became other kinds of merchandise. One Soo Mill Buildall would have put them all out of business.
I would say that near misses were down to about 4 today.
DAY 102
Wednesday November 14
Anyang to Xingtai
140 km
Flat terrain, dirty, dusty, maximum 2 kilometer visibility in pollution haze, several near misses, Duncan hit a pedestrian, much environmental degradation, not an enjoyable part of the trip.
DAY 101
Tuesday November 13
DAY OFF…Anyang
CHINA: Xi’an to Anyang
DAY 100
Monday November 12
Xinxiang to Anyang
120 km
Xin Da Di Hotel
Hazy, polluted air all the way and lots of traffic to navigate, especially in the towns. Arrived at nice hotel which will be my location for our last rest day tomorrow, prior to a 5 day ride into Beijing and the end of the excursion.
DAY 99
Sunday November 11
Bo’ai to Xinxiang
80 km
Chang Cheng Bingwan
Short, flat, hazy and here I am in Xinxiang!
DAY 98
Saturday November 10
Louyang City to Bo’ai
115 km
Zhong Shan Hotel
It was an easy ride which started in fog and gradually improved as the day went on. The best thing about the day was arriving at the hotel which turned out to be very upscale with a huge spa…..luxury on the Silk Route excursion…for a change!!
DAY 97
Friday November 9
Sanmenxia to Louyang City
130 km
It was a dismal day. The sky was heavily polluted, the traffic was continually blaring horns and the road was covered in drifting coal dust. There was nothing aesthetic to see except some buildings as I passed through a city. More coal-fired plants and choking air. How do people live continuously in the dust and polluted air? I had three vehicles try to push me off the road to the point I had to stop and shout. I would never wish to ride this part of China again. I arrived heavily covered in coal dust and washed a sink and shower full of brackish water down the drain from my clothes.
DAY 96
Thursday November 8
Huaying to Sanmenxia
145 km
Hotel
It was a challenging day with a lot of hills reaching out from the Han Shan mountains. I started painfully unenergized, but by 25 km I was cooking and it only got better. I got stronger to the point I was the second person to arrive at the hotel in Sanmenxia.
Pollution abated during the morning and became tolerable; however, I still could only see a faint outline from the mountains to the south.
I passed 3 huge coal-fired electrical stations along the route, one being expanded or newly constructed. You are continuously reminded that this is the key source of energy.
Generally, I see very little wildlife. However, today I saw an amazing. It was feathered to extend its plumage in all directions, allowing it an agile maneuverability, transferring its flight easily from swooping to stalling to faster flight. It was a large grey and white ‘jay-like’ bird with a very long tail plumage.
DAY 95
Wednesday November 7
Xi’an to Huaying
130 km
Departed Xi’an as a 25 km convoy through pollution haze which got worse as I proceeded. Visibility for the day was no better than 1 km in a pollution-induced haze that hurt you eyes and filled your lungs.
We are heading east from Xi’an to eventually ride north on our final thrust towards Beijing. The sacred Hua Shan mountains are on my left and I can only see a faint outline. Visibility is essentially 1 mile or less all the way. The land is abused, I pass 3 coal-fired generation stations, mountains are being dismantled for aggregate. It is not a pleasant riding day, even though the mountains we are passing are fabled in China and are depicted in Chinese art as atypical of the cultural tradition.
Today we crossed over from Shaanxi province to Shanxi province…go figure that one out…only an ‘a’ of difference in the name but, a provincial jurisdiction apart.
Jim and Jean on top of it all
DAY 94
Tuesday November 6
Day off Xi’an
I spent most of the day catching up on computer / internet tasks. During mid morning there was a wail of sirens which I tried to ignore. After a prolonged exposure, I gave in, left the hotel to investigate. Just a block away on the main street I discovered a major event had occurred. At a large 7-story building under renovations, the scaffolding had collapsed. It was a mess. I took many pictures and intended to send it all home as a tongue-in-cheek breaking news, except I could not determine if there were deaths or injuries.
I went back to the hotel to do more work, scooted out again to check what was happening and so it goes during the afternoon. Within two hours after this catastrophic event where a huge pile of twisted metal took out several trees and shaved the building façade, there were workers prying hanging metal from the building while others without hard hats or safety boots or tie-ons were scampering up the debris or along the building to begin the clean up.
In a North American world the road would have been closed for days for an investigation. Not here in China! The clean up continued during the afternoon with what appeared to be casual labour with soft shoes and helmets, many waiting to be told to carry something. Into the darkness, with no lighting or cranes, they worked. Was there injury or death or investigation or does anyone care? I never determined this; however, I think it was a reasonable arm’s length observation to note the lack of worker safety in many dimensions. It is not a criticism, It is only to say that worker safety is very different in North America. If no one was maimed, I would be surprised, but thankful.
DAY 93
Monday November 5
DAY OFF XI’AN
A travel program was arranged. I visited the Terracotta Warriors Museum, had a great local lunch, went for a tea tasting, had a Chinese body and foot massage and attended the Chinese Opera which was preceded by a dumpling feast. It was a delightful day.
Happy Starbucks staff in Xian
DAY 92
Sunday November 4th
Qian Xian to Xi-an
70 km
It was a very straightforward day, short, fast, except I got lost coming into the city. After an extra 15 km of diversions, while I was pondering my next move at a corner in this city of 7 million, a Chinese pedestrian looked at me, smiled and pointed a direction down the road. I could only assume he had seen other riders going that way. I proceeded and eventually, three km later, the directional clues had coalesced into meeting the last group to be convoyed to the hotel. We rode slowly as a group for 23 km and enjoyed a special treat. Henry Gold, the tour manager, was biking with us and he stopped us to admire and to take pictures of a huge monument commemorating the starting point of the Silk Route. How symbolic it was for me! I am now looking forward to an incredible two days off in Xi’an to do much cleaning, organizing and sightseeing. Then I am looking forward to the final 1200 km push to Beijing, where I’ll be glad to be packaging my bike for the return trip to Canada and cozy nights by the fire.
Then snow shoeing and cross country skiing come next. Whoops, stay focused JJ!
DAY 91
Saturday November 3rd
Changwu to Qian Xian
105 km
I got my first taste of rank, filthy industrial China. It was in my eyes, on my skin and up my nose.
Departing Changwu at 8:00 am, was cold again under a full morning sun and it took a couple of hours to warm up. Meanwhile, I was riding through the plateau enjoying the agricultural atmosphere.
After an hour or so, there was a long descent into a river valley and a coal mining town which had a pollution haze and layers of coal dust from the truck traffic used to haul the coal. Soon the road started up again towards a 2 kilometre tunnel, and about 5 kilometres to the tunnel, I started counting the stationary, bumper to bumper line of trucks with a few buses and other vehicles. At 400, I stopped counting, because I had to apply all my attention to weaving in and out to the opposite lane, then to the shoulder to keep ascending to the tunnel. .
Then came the dark dingy tunnel which had its own loading of stopped vehicles attempting passage, and I wove my way precariously along the distance, finally emerging through the proverbial “light at the end of the tunnel.”
Another downhill, then up to another tunnel, this time a shorter tunnel to traverse and all the time, I am weaving in and out of slowly moving or stationary traffic. The second tunnel was quick and easy, but the engine exhaust and haze were choking.
The gridlock lasted about 35 km and there had to be well over 1000 vehicles jammed into this confined linear space. Finally, I reached our destination, and like many other riders, I appeared as though it had been me doing the coal mining myself, caked with dirt and smeared with pollutants..
Upon my remarking about this being a great riding experience, which I would not want to reepat, Henry, the organizer of the Silk Route Expedition, said this was not the worst…..that in another area close to Xian, tomorrow’s destination, there was much greater congestion from trucks in a coal mining area and greater coal dust pollution. We will not pass through that area, but will deviate to the east on our way to Beijing.
And so it goes, we experience more and more of the effects of China’s thrust to become a major world economic power….building an industrial empire on the backs of dirty coal and ever more polluted skies….feeling it first hand on my bike as I soak up the soot and exhaust. Cough, cough!
I am on my way to Xi-an, the main ancient, eastern terminus of the historical Silk Route.
DAY 90
Friday November 2nd
Pingliang to Changwu
120 km
Off to an early start at 8:00 am for a relatively straightforward ride during the morning, where the air was heavy with pollution. Finally it began clearing as we entered more countryside. Then we followed a valley between two mountain ridges.
An 8 km climb after lunch onto a higher plateau brought me into beautiful farmland with terraced slopes beyond. On this broad agricultural area many orchards growing the best Gala variety apples anyone has tasted were numerous. The apples were crisp, juicy and sweet. We had an extra special Chinese dinner in the restaurant today on behalf of the crew.
DAY 89
Thursday November 1st
Jingning to Pingliang
105 km
Today we cross from Gangsu province, to Ningxia province, and back to Gangsu province. The morning was a cold, steady 53 km climb to a mountain tunnel, where a convoy was organized to pass through to the other side.
It was at least -5 degrees C -- snow and frost were visible in the farm country I passed through on the way to the 2400-meter pass. Regardless of the cold, it was a beautiful trip up to the tunnel, a nervous trip through the tunnel and then a breakout into the most beautiful mountain top vista you can enjoy.
Way below in the valley, small villages were framed by terraced mountains which flowed into the distance. Here, the land was sculptured by nature and by hand into impressive dimension.
During the afternoon, layered as heavily as I have to date, it was a romp to Jingning, being downhill all the way. I gradually peeled off my excess clothing. The day was made tolerable by the full sun enjoyed throughout.
You never know what to expect on an extensive journey like the Silk Route Excursion and today brought another surprise. After a challenging day I had an altercation with another rider about his firecracker antics. After a many strong words, he chose to slam me to the ground. So you never know where your injuries may come from, bike, other vehicles or unhappy riders. I put my best face to the event, but my hip hurts and I hope it will be mobile in the morning.
Then, a few minutes later as I was copying the instructions for tomorrow’s ride, someone exiting the hotel walked through the glass entry door and ended up lying in a pile of thick glass from which I extracted him. He was taken to a clinic for repairs.
In between these two less than happy events, I went with others to enjoy the Kongtong Mountain. It is an important ancient center for Taoist philosophical beliefs dating beyond 399 BC. It is a vertical creation with many temples and heart-thumping vertical stair ways.
DAY 89
Wednesday October 32st
Construction Camp to Jingning
105 km
Jingning Binguan
We climbed to 2200 metres at the pass and are in a hotel at 1650 metres. Climbed 576 metres (2000 ft) over the day as I continue the route across the higher altitudes.
Mostly cloudy, into the wind which made it a cold ride, but climbing most of the day warmed you up. Regardless, a full set of multiple layers was necessary as I passed through more terrain with rounded, terraced mountains and deep canyons. The mountains are made of a hardened sand and it seems between erosion, highway construction and agriculture, the land is being continuously reassembled and re-shaped for human needs.
I passed through agricultural areas specializing in potatoes, then fruit. The work of the peasant farmers was tough and arduous, farming small plots of land with challenging accessibility, using cattle or horses for ploughing, and apparently using a primitive distribution system for their output starting with some motorized carts or hand-pulled carts.
DAY 88
Tuesday October 30th
Lanzhau to Bridge Const Camp
130 km
A landmark day!
We started at 1600 metres, climbed to 2100 metres and ended up at camp at 1800 metres. (6,000 feet) with 1300 metres (over 4,000 ft.) of climbing for the day.
I rode out of Lanzhau in a steady climb through some serious pollution for the first 1 ½ hours. The first several K’s were through terrain that had been re-constructed many times over through the impact of human settlement. Nothing seemed natural.
The landscape became one of deep serrated valleys with eroded embankments, and mountainous terraces into the distance. This continued as I climbed and as the mountains became higher and the valleys with butte-like extrusions more dramatic.
The tollway, the railway and our secondary road all shared the same valley corridor. The road climbed through many passes and valleys to unveil expansive areas of terraced mountains where agriculture occurred at the highest and most precipitous places. The dimension of shadows and shapes and enterprise was riveting, and I took many pictures, which slowed me down. We camped under a ridge in a sand quarry, perhaps for the last camp this trip, since it is becoming very cold and we will revert to roofed accommodation for the duration.
DAY 87 MON OCT 29TH Day OFF Lanzhau
DAY 86 SUN OCT 28TH Tianzhau to Lanzhau 145 Km
I enjoyed a cold, shivering journey through a mining-agricultural area located in a wide mountain valley with river. Many villages were on both sides and the mountains were well worn with human activity.
At about 100 km, we crossed the Yellow River for the road into Lanzhau. Between here and Lanzhau is considered one of the most industrialized areas in China, refining a large percentage of China’s oil that comes from Yemen. Pictures were impossible, visibility was only two kilometres at best and the pollution fog was choking. Chimney after chimney spewed its exhaust to the point you could not count them.. The extensive area of industrial activity was largely hidden by a lengthy wall to hide the damage.
Miraculously, the air cleared up in Lanzhou city itself.
We are passing through a high mountain area for the next few days on the way to Xian.
DAY 85 SAT OCT 27TH Wuwei to Tianzhau 145 Km
Another surprise day…and another test! Things started out decently enough with a short convoy out of town and a climbing cruise through less verdant agricultural areas as determined by the smaller fields, the increasing altitude which would make the growing season smaller and lack of tractors for ploughing. Oxen, horse, and motorized hand plough were prevalent.
We were starting at an altitude of about 1450 metres [5000 feet] and ultimately the pass we were to climb through was 3000 metres [10,000 feet]. Soon the mountains converged and we were plying the pass. At lunch it was cold, there was the odd snow flake, however looking to the pass there was a lot of whiteness and snow could be predicted.
I left lunch anticipating the final 600 meter climb on the secondary road, which wended its way through mountain villages and terrain. I was bundled and had a warm, but not overheated climb to the increasingly snowy top which turned into a snow event as I got higher.
With a tail wind all the way, I was a winner so far. But, looking over the windy snow blown pass with crusted snow and ice on the road became intimidating. Nonetheless, down it was! Down to 2300 metres in the town of Tianzhau with a tail wind BUT, WITH A WIND CHILL that really did its job. It was all I could do to keep hands and feet and [you know what!] warm and attentive. I was banging gloved hands and dancing on the bike to stay alert over the next 40 km which was all down, but all brutally cold.
If you wanted to get to the hotel, you just had to cover the distance! Finally, the town and miraculously I de-iced without injury or loss of brain cells. The hotel was excellent and the shower was hot, hot, hot!
DAY 84 FRI OCT 26nd
Day off Wuwei.
CHINA: Dunhuang to Wuwei
DAY 83
Thursday October 25th
Cemetary desert camp to Wuwei.
92 km
Looking down a village lane near
Juiguan...corn drying
I was back on the secondary road #312 which generally weaves along in the same direction as the limited access toll-way, but like many original traffic routes in North America, is the one that passes through the villages and is the one accessible for local traffic and farmers.
From this perspective, it was a pleasant, sunny ride made even more enjoyable because I was rolling from 2200 metres at camp to 1450 metres in the town of Wuwei. So, it was quick!!...only 3 hours riding. This gave me time to wander the town to do some shopping and load up on snacks and dinner.
DAY 82
Wednesday October 24th
Zhangye to desert camp
150 km
Cemetery desert camp
Looking westward down the
ancient remains of the Great Wall
Another day to remember. A long day…an exciting day!
We expected to be climbing most of the day and so it was. In the morning I was on the secondary road riding through small towns and looking back to see the terrain gradually dropping and disappearing over the space. There was now a ridge of mountains to the north, on my left, and now I was beginning to understand the relationship of the mountains to the Hexi corridor. As I rode ahead, the corridor became further defined with mountains on both sides.
I stopped with other riders when enticed to pancakes being cooked by the side of the road in a small town. (When we stay in hotels and get breakfast included, it is a Chinese breakfast which has a lot of vegetables and salads and items that to our minds do not produce enough energy for long distance bike riding). So this was a topper. However, I was still at 60 km. Lunch was not scheduled till 80 km. However, at 70 km I was greeted by the lunch truck to my and others’ surprise. It seems the road we were on disintegrated and at this point there was also an entry to the toll-way. Bikes are prohibited on the official toll-ways; however, we were allowed to proceed.
Halleluja! There was still 75 km to go. The toll-way was enjoyable. There was no competition for space. There was no honking to get you out of the way. There was some friendly greeting honking. The vistas were special because the toll-way is elevated on the terrain so you could see way beyond. And the air was fresh and breathable. There was very little volume of traffic. So, here I was in rider bliss!
After lunch we began to follow the ruins of the Great Wall of China and this continued for 75 kilometers. It winded its way through the corridor where the highway passed and leaned against the mountains to the north. The toll-way actually passed right through the Great Wall ruins with substantial elements on both sides.
After 90 km, it was time to climb more seriously into the impending mountains to cross the pass. It was up and up in a steady push and at 115 we were on top. There was no traffic and I danced across four lanes in a sort of spiritual trance, taking pictures until about 5 minutes later the odd bus or truck began to pass. However, for this time I was in the pass-t celebrating the presence of such an enjoyable journey.
Now, it was down and from 115 km to 150 km I expected fast and furious. Well, it was fast for about 15 km, but all the way it was a downhill pedal into strong headwinds. During the last 15 km there was a flat to climbing experience which meant you worked all the way to camp.
We started at Zhangye at 1400 meters, we climbed to 2650 meters [7600 feet] at the pass, we descended to 2200 meters at camp. And we will descend to 1450 meters to Wuwei where we will stay tomorrow night. There is only 90 km slated for tomorrow’s ride so ride on!!
Crusing through the portals of time...
The Great Wall of China
DAY 81
Tuesday October 23rd
Desert camp to Zhangye
125 km
Camp was buffeted overnight by what must have been a frontal passage. Tents were really shaking for awhile. By morning it was cold, however I could feel a tail wind.
And it was much more than a tail wind! The camp was apparently high on the slope that falls from the distant snow-covered peaks. It is hard to judge distance or height since you look into the other direction past some low-rise peaks into space. When you begin to ride though, you realize you are going down….for 25 kilometers….down and down with the wind on your tail.
I passed along a very scenic agricultural strip. Although I was moving quickly all morning and afternoon, there was lots of time to observe the farmers in autumn, cleaning up fields, drying corn and other crops, taking produce to markets and preparing the land for next spring.
There were also some pretty autumn colours and falling leaves blown around by the wind. Being absent from our beautiful fall seasons at home, it was the first time that I became reminiscent. The irrigated, desert-surrounded farming area had its own colour and beauty.
All said, a 4-hour riding day and pleasant rural towns made another classic riding day.
In Zhangye I went to visit the biggest reclining Buddha in China, located in a temple.
Tomorrow we climb 1000 meters.
DAY 80
Monday October 22nd
Jiayuguan to desert camp
135 km
About 15 construction towers on
one residential site
It was a fast, enjoyable day riding from Jiayuguan through a corridor of urban area, then through the city of Juiquan, where we passed exceptional looking buildings and an agricultural corridor, before breaking out into primarily desert space after about 70 km.
As we traveled, a high snow-capped mountain range was on the right forming the south side of the Hexi corridor. From the mountains, the ground gently sloped to our route of travel, then way beyond into the horizon forward and on our left. There were other land features, but everything was obscured with haze and the pollution bank suspended over the two adjacent cities..
I observed massive industrial site development and housing projects being built in the cities, and a wall of pollution. It was our first experience with the degree of pollution in Chinese cities and it won’t be the last. You wonder how long the stucco and paint finishes will last on the new buildings.
Juiquan city was eye-opening as we passed by the main downtown area with very modern buildings architecturally unique and impressive in design. I wished I could have spent more time looking around.
Camp is on a desert plateau with mountains in the distance.
DAY 79
Sunday October 21st
DAY OFF
Jiayuguan
Hongsheng Hotel
Visited the Jaiyuguan Pass where a fort was built for protection from invaders in the late 1300s, connected to a portion of Great Wall and where it was considered at the time to be the western most point of Imperial China. This pass and fort were considered to be invaluable in supporting the Silk Route trading system.
DAY 78
Saturday October 20th
Desert camp to Jiayuguan
135 km
Another false start. We were supposed to ride the secondary road, except shortly after leaving camp, the road became more of a one-lane trail with fast trucks and no traditional road markers, making you think you were not on the right road.
After searching and assessing, I finally jumped back on to the toll-way and completed the day on it. It was another sunny day with light headwinds and the journey to Jiayuguan was pleasant, although we missed the lunch truck because it was set up on the secondary road. So arrived in Jiayuguan quite hungry.
I am traveling through a region called the Hexi Corridor.
DAY 77
Friday October 19th
155 km
Anxi to desert camp
Over 300 windmills on one
project along the way
Briefing was to go down the toll-way, but riders were refused from entering the motorway at the toll booth. We looked for an alternate road and after assessing various options, felt there was no other way but to get back on the motorway, which was always visible…by going under an open section of fence. As it turned out, I did not have to go under. At a point where the road became an overpass, I walked down an embankment on a set of stairs and ended up on the inside median, from which I could hop over to get onto the road.
Headed into the wind for the morning. The afternoon was more of a cruise. Got lost again, because the directions were once again fuzzy. Finally figured it out by meeting other riders and arrived at camp with about 20 extra k’s on the odometer.
DAY 76
Thursday October 18th
Dunhuang to Anxi
125 km
Liang You Hotel
It was a nothing day! By that I mean virtually no winds, no hills, no bumps in the road, no traffic, clear skies, and one of the shortest biking days at 4 hours for the distance. It was nothing but pure bliss!
DAY 75
Wednesday October 17th
Day off
Dunhuang
This city was a major centre for the Silk Route traders, being a point where routes were taken to the north or the south.
Visited the Magao Grottos, a 1600-year-old historical site comprised of hundreds of caves built into the side of a mountain, lavishly decorated with statues and art related to Buddism. Simply an astounding experience. Then visited a site of sand dunes just out of town that makes anything back home seem like ant hills. A few good dinners and snacks were enjoyed in the Moonlight Market where much produce and many eating stands are located.
DAY 74
Tuesday October 16th
Desert camp to Dunhuang
65 km
Flat morning ride through desert, then agricultural terrain.
Passed the remnants of the Western most portion of The Great Wall.
DAY 73
Monday October 15th
Desert camp to desert camp
120 km
Terrain Dunhuang to Turpan
“Why am I doing this?” my body rebels, as it awakens to freezing cold temperatures (-5C or less) at our camp at 1700 meters (6000 ft) in the desert. The drinking-water container is frozen and so are most of the riders.
I do my morning preparations, layering up with riding gear and shivering through gobs of oatmeal and bread with peanut butter. By 9am, I am off onto the desert highway, gradually warming up from the movement and selectively removing clothing or unzipping during the morning as the desert sun takes command of the day.
A rounded low-lying ridge is abeam to my right, and from there the terrain gently slopes into the horizon to the left of my travel. This elevation in the desert has no vegetation, only rock and sand. I ride low-grade ascents and descents all day.
We cross our first Chinese provincial border, and after a snack stop in a café at the border of the provinces of Xinjiang and Gangsu, then another lunch 10 km later at the lunch truck. I continue peering into an empty desert as the highway penetrates a series of ridges and begins a long downward trend into camp at about 800 metres. The desert begins to show scrub and grasses as we lower in elevation.
DAY 72
Sunday October 14th
Desert camp to desert camp
120 km
Two days before DunHuang
Woke up at 3 degrees C. Clear skies as usual in the desert presented a full sunrise and you just had to wait for the sun to be felt. We were at 1700 metres, having climbed since leaving Hami two days ago which is at 800 metres.
Morning was a long, low grade climb with some head wind averaging 20 kph, through rolling desert heading into a cluster of ridges.
Shortly after noon, winds became tail winds and I smoked into camp riding the last 50 km at high speed. Camp was at 1800 metres, (6000 ft).
It has been an interesting few days in the desert, with morning head winds shifting to tail winds, making the mornings hard work and the afternoons a cruise. The terrain alters between flat and horizon-less, to scenic rocky ridges.
As you travel the highway, there are many heavily laden trucks that pass. Some loads are quite visible like the loads of sheep, donkey, horse, pigs and rabbits, presumably with only a few days left to enjoy the scenery. Others may or may not be visible under tarps covering bloated, overhanging loads.
Look on the road as you pass by on a bicycle and you can see all kinds of evidence of loads, such as black coal, rust bricks, Spanish onion, cooking onion, melon, apple, and white quartz rock.
DAY 71
Saturday October 13th
Hami to desert camp
115 km
Desert Camp
“There are many stories about the difficulty of winds as you cross the desert east of Hami”, we were forewarned by the tour leader. “If we encounter adverse weather, we may shorten the distance to camp.”
I experienced nothing adverse, just cool, sunny weather with moderate to calm head winds crossing this pure desert terrain. Again, much highway construction beside me.
I became mesmerized with the beauty and peacefulness of the passage. Once past some small towns east of Hami, traffic was light.
Camp came up short at 115 km, but a memorable setting since we are set up on a small plateau overlooking a vast area of desert. From this vantage point, the desert seems endless.
The afternoon sun was hot and had me basking in the sun, and there was a striking sunset just as we were having dinner. Very memorable desert experience.
DAY 70
Friday October 12th
Desert camp to Hami
Hotel Hami
145 km
Just prior to Dunhuang
Another cold morning and we shivered through breakfast, but although distance was long, ride was great….WITH A TAIL WIND ALL MORNING. I don’t think I had it in me to do another ride on the back of yesterday, so it was great.
On top of that we descended about 700 to 800 meters over the day’s ride into Hami.
Once again I had a mountain ridge to the north with snow-capped peaks this time. To the south the terrain gradually fell away into almost limitless horizon. However, through the haze you could see a few features. There was the odd village; however, it was primarily empty desert all the way with a lot of new highway construction.
The afternoon brought out the headwinds; they were moderate to light and the day took 5 hours riding time compared to 6 ½ for the same distance yesterday.
Morning average was 29 kph and for the day it was 27.2 kph.
We are currently with 38 riders, but only 18 are at camp, with some sick and gone ahead, others weary…gone ahead to take a break and others on side journeys. It was cosy tonight at camp, and a good dinner of spaghetti with duck meat and vegetables was enjoyed.
DAY 69
Thursday October 11th
Desert camp to desert camp
145 km
Hello to my fellow RPM’ers at Good Life Fitness Club in the Sault.
This journal entry is dedicated to you and I suggest you try riding this day on a spinning bike. There will not be enough time in a regular class so pick a free day.
To begin with, start the session by being cold…make it as close to 0 degrees as you can so November would be a good month to replicate this ride on an RPM bike.
You may want to gather a few supporting scenic posters which show desert in the foreground and some mountain ridges in the distance.
Before beginning, enjoy a big bowl of oatmeal and lots of bread and peanut butter with an instant coffee.
Total ride duration is 6 ½ hours, so you can divide the kilometers accordingly to calculate the time for the distance. You begin at 300 meters and finish at 1500 meters. Ready, let’s go!
0-10 km
Depart camp, cruise through village into wind…level terrain Tension 2
10-60 km
Almost imperceptible shallow climb with headwind through empty desert to the south with a ridge of mountains to the north. It is hard to perceive the ascent except you know your bike is very sticky and after a distance you can look back and see the land falling off into the distance. Try to maintain 15 kph. Tension 7
60-80 km
Still climbing winds pick up and you think you perceive a top to the climb but you are being buffeted and blasted as you emerge onto a flat ridge. Variable 6-7-8.
80 km
Lunch with rice pudding and duck a la king sandwich. Peanut butter and bread.
80-100 km
Descent into an area of surrounding mountain ridges through a buffeting head wind. You pedal hard downhill but a speed of 25 kph downhill is all you can do. Tension 4
100-110Km
Variable terrain, eastward direction through a small village over a slight ridge and beautiful scenic rocky mountain surroundings. Averaging 20-25 kph with variable winds. Tension 3
110-135 km
Highway turns northward for another 5% gradient, long gradual climb.
Into the wind. It is all you can do to stay on top of 15 kph and it goes on and on and on.
Tension 7
135-145 km
Highway turns eastward again and you are delighted to pick up a strong tailwind into camp. You sustain speeds between 35 and 45 kph into camp. Tension 3
There you have it RPM’ers! A wonderful day of cycling. Get ready for more tomorrow. Lots of snacks, good dinner, crawl into tent and sleep in the freezing cold to get up and get going again.
DAY 68
Wednesday October 10th
Hotel Turpan to desert camp
130 km
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Departed Turpan to climb back out of the depression, the second lowest on earth at -150 m. Gaining altitude into headwind was slow. After lunch at 70 k, speeds improved with wind abeam.
Passed major oil-production area, grape-growing region and other agricultural products.
Everywhere you look along the highway the desert is disturbed for expanded highway, future irrigation and reclamation, or for expanding recently developed crop areas, especially grapes.
Camp surface was composed of fine sand that kicked up into a dust whenever disturbed by campers walking by or when a vehicle approached. I camped as far to upwind as I could to avoid the exposure, but still the wind left everything covered with fine dust….great for my allergies.
DAY 67
Tuesday October 9th
Day Off, Turpan
Toured the interpretive centre for the Karez Irrigation system, a network of underground canals which deliver water from the mountains to the city far down the slopes. This ancient water supply system was dug using no machinery, only human labour and primitive excavating equipment. Constructed by the Uighurs over 2000 years ago, there is a head well constructed on higher ground by the mountains, which collects the snow melt and run off. The well is connected by a long underground tunnel to the village down below. Every 20 M or so, vertical shafts, looking like a series of anthills from above, were excavated to create access for tunnel digging. The tunnels eventually flow into a pond at a lower level to supply the city. There was an incredible 5000 km built for Turpan’s Karez supply system. An additional feature of this water system is that it overcomes water loss through evaporation. The Turpan area is a major grape-growing region, all developed through irrigation systems.
DAY 66
Monday October 8th
Rocky mountain desert camp to Hotel Turpan
160 km
It was about 5 degrees C at wake-up and I had another shivering breakfast within our rocky nest in this Tien Shan mountain ridge. The climb out was not 2 km, it was 12 km. However, once there, it was down through the most inspired rounded-mountain terrain…a scenic, flowing highway descent…a whopping 45 km down…into a wide stone-topped plateau within distant ridges.
Then, there was the hard 40 across the valley into wind and imperceptible ascents which kept my speed below 20 km. The length of the day was looking bleak, before joining the main highway to Turpan heading east. My speed doubled even though it was into the wind; I was heading down to the second lowest place on earth. I arrived quite tired from the distance…perhaps not as tired as it would have been without the awesome descent through the mountains.
DAY 65
Sunday October 7th
Agricultural desert camp to Rocky mountain desert camp
125 km
Departed in the cold and it took a while to warm up. Had both a very shallow continuous climb to deal with and a head wind, causing me to project a 7- to 8-hour day on the bike. It was a difficult morning until just prior to lunch at 60 km. After getting to lunch, I learned that we had climbed 350 meters over a distance of 40 km. Then something special happened and for those in the group that gave up at lunch because of the tough morning, they missed a gem of an afternoon which spiced the entire day’s experience..
Our morning briefing had not included that coming out of lunch we were to enjoy a 20 km downhill through a rocky mountain pass, which got us to the other side of the ridge and into a sun-drenched valley. Winds were more moderate and became more directional with our travel, and I ended the day beginning a climb back out of the valley with the wind at my back.
We still have 2 km more of this uphill after breakfast tomorrow, after which I am told to expect a steady downhill throughout the day into Turpan which is located in a depression at minus 150 meters (500 ft), one of the lowest elevations on land on earth.
DAY 64
Saturday October 6th
Korla to Desert Camp
120 km
Located within a compound where they were drying corn, watermelon seeds and grapes.
Good breakfast at hotel and off to what immediately became a 10 km climb over a mountain ridge to travel northward from Korla. Crossing the ridge, we passed through high rock walls that gave me the feeling I was entering box canyons. However, after several cuts in the road I emerged on the other side of the ridge to explode into a wide valley with distant towns and many tall chimneys.
Then we began experiencing a lot of construction on our road that paralleled the new motorway, which was closed to bicycles. Just prior to lunch some snow-capped mountains emerged out of the haze to the north. At one point in the afternoon I passed what had to be at least 5 km of red peppers, laid out to dry in the sun. Passed many small villages and overall the day was interesting and quite fast, although there was some head wind in the afternoon. The Tien Shan mountains to the north will remain with us all the way to Turpan.
DAY 63
Friday October 5th
Desert camp to Korla
135 km
The strong winds overnight kept many awake. The winds eventually subsided early morning and by departure time we had favourable winds for the day. Entering Korla from the west, we passed through an industrial area that gave one a very dismal impression of the city. However, once I reached the downtown the amount of urban renewal was impressive. A classy shopping mall, tall new business towers, very large new apartments along with a main street rimmed with buildings exuding architectural quality and a river bisecting the city with accompanying park land made this city unique.
Korla was voted the cleanest city in China and clean it was…not counting the emissions.
The big changes over the last 10 years to the Korla landscape has had everything to do with the expansion of the oil industry in the desert and Korla being the center for the offices of the oil industry companies. I stayed in one of the main hotels in the downtown and was treated to 4-star standards, which worked out fine because I was able to hook up my computer directly to broadband in the room and get caught up on journals and the like.
DAY 62
Thursday October 4th
Kuqa to desert camp
150 km
Red papers laid out to dry in China
Cool morning in parking lot as we had breakfast. Winds seemed to be gusting westerly, which gave everyone encouragement since we are traveling east. Not far out of town the real wind began hitting us from the north, and so we continued throughout the day fighting blustery winds from abeam. It looked quite bleak at one point. I thought I would be riding 7 hours or more.
Winds moderated at times and we got some tail benefit, so overall the day became 6 hours, not too bad at all. I began to see lots of evidence of the oil industry. To the south of our route is the main portion of the Taklimakan Desert where it is said 30 percent of China’s oil reserves are found. A new refinery was located just outside of Kuga, where it appears two older ones are closed. What looked like a gas plant was being constructed and we passed through an area labeled Petro-Chemical Region, where there was a significant amount of surrounding construction.
Although it took constant work, the day went by enjoyably and interestingly.
Now in camp, there are very strong northerly winds blasting my tent and it is anyone’s guess what tomorrow will bring.
DAY 61
Wednesday October 3rd
DAY OFF
Kuqa
Town of 65,000, chaotic downtown traffic; however, it moves slowly. The town has created some very nice, wide boulevards and pedestrian walks. However, watch out for the scooters and the cars that drive everywhere there is pavement, in not too orderly a fashion. Ate mostly at market place stalls from fish to salads to a variety of foods cooked in oil on skewers.
DAY 60
Tuesday October 2nd
Desert camp to Kuqa
95 km
Short, fast, enjoyable ride for our rest day. Wandered around town, did washing, sought out internet, and ate at wagons in the market place. Busy, Busy!
DAY 59
Monday October 1st
Acsu to desert camp
165 km
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Hauling cotton
It was a long 6 ½ hour riding day with the wind in my face most of the way. Departing Acsu was easy enough; however, the highway became busy for the first 50 km, passing through several small villages until breaking out into the real desert terrain during the afternoon. A small mountain ridge divided the irrigated agricultural land, with a lot of cotton production from the pure desert which became rimmed to our left with a picturesque ridge of mountains.
I am seeing more and more evidence of coal burning for heating and hot water and starting to see evidence of the pollution and smog that people talk about as China expands its economy.
DAY 58
Sunday September 30th
Desert camp to Acsu
168 km
Shi Fen Bian Li Hotel
It was a honker…almost an entire day with wind at my tail, averaging almost 30kph. The traffic heated up as we approached Acsu and got pretty frantic in the town. On the way there were many cotton plants which I think do primary processing before sending the cotton to the fabric manufacturers. There must be huge cotton fields south of the highway that we could not see, as well as the many trucks we saw bringing cotton into the area from the west.
Wind off the mountains became a cross wind factor later in the day, but it was time to slow down and observe the continuous mercantile activity on both sides of the road for the last 20 km. It was hectic and I guess that’s the way it will be in any major centre in China from here on. One has to really pay attention and practice defensive riding. At any minute a cart, or a bike or scooter may come at you from totally unpredictable directions.
DAY 57
Saturday September 29th
Sugun to desert camp
145 km
Overcast and grey turned to light rain and after 35 km of no wind, we got the winds off the mountains to our left again and right away I expected a long tiring day. However, at lunch we were surprised to feel the wind blowing stronger and aligned with the road in our direction. During the afternoon’s 70-km stretch, it was fast…seldom going below 30 kph and hanging at 40 kph. We were due this one.
It is interesting to note that way out here in the western most region of China, the road we are traveling on is better than most you see in Ontario. It is a wide two-laned highway with 5-foot paved shoulders. Vehicles have a wide enough lane to easily pull over, trucks and buses are very courteous and traffic moves at or below the speed limit of 80 kph.
In the “stans”, one seldom saw police vehicles which is quite the opposite so far in China.
DAY 56
Friday September 28th
Kashgar to Sugun
150 km
Hotel camp
It was a day of surprises…both exhilarating and challenging! The morning was fast and smooth averaging 27 km. We were working our way closer to a range of mountains which we followed to our left. Just prior to lunch, winds began blowing off the mountains, across the sloping plain and into our track along the highway.
We were tracking towards a weather system that appeared to be moving out and I was speculating the winds were related. However, since the winds continued blowing off the ridge for the rest of the day, it was probably down-slope winds from the north and they got stronger and stronger….my guess is they were blowing 20 to 30 knots.
The curious part of the winds was that the road kept curving to the right to go follow the mountain range and as the direction changed, the wind stayed the same…abeam or ahead.
It became so hard at times, my track was 12” off the vertical as I leaned into the side wind trying to make progress. At one point I was down to 10 kph heading uphill into the wind. Gusting winds were made even more challenging when traffic passed by and it was good there was not a lot of traffic.
There was also a lot of water flowing from the mountains into containment dikes that channeled the water under the highway culverts to spill into a very flat expansive desert plain that was beside our route most of the way. If there are 1.4 billion people in China, we saw only about 200 of them on our route today after leaving Kashgar. There is not a lot of habitation along this part of the highway.
DAY 55
Thursday septemebr 27
DAY OFF… Kashgar
Hotel
Butchering in Kashgar
Kashgar, the western gateway to China, has always been not only one of the major stops on the Silk Route, but also retains its reputation as the opium channel from earlier times to the present day. The city of 340,000 feels more Central Asian in most places than it feels Chinese. Both the region of Xinjiang and the city of Kashgar are home of the approx $1.8 Ulgers (sounds like weegers) who trace their ancestry to the famed Blue Turks. Independence from China is a goal of the aspiring Ulgers.
I explored the old city and the Id Koh mosque and bazaar, and wandered the many winding streets with the likes of metal craftsmen, carpet merchants and potters all practicing their crafts and displaying their goods along the narrow streets. Produce merchants and other vendors intermixed at every corner, occasionally becoming a street or a small bazaar of vendors, joined by passing taxis, scooters, bikes and carts making the streets chaotic and loud. There was a sense of discovery at every corner.
Jean Verdova munches on fresh Kashgar bagels
DAY 54
WED SEPT 26
Wugia to Kashgar
74 km Hotel
Downhill all the way from camp at 2300 meters to Kashgar at 1200 metres.
Several villages busy with residential construction along the way. Fast and exciting!
DAY 53
Tuesday September 25
Ulugqat toWugia
116 km
Desert camp
The ochre-grey-taupe clay and sandstone-based mountains looked like they were play-do’ed into pyramids and mounds by a monster’s hands. I ride throughout the morning in these shapes starting at 2550 metres. There were many ascents and descents during the morning and two passes, one at 3000 meters and one at 2750 meters taking us to the lunch truck at 2500 metres. Afternoon brought more delightful scenery as we further lowered out altitude to 2300 metres at camp.
The terrain along the way was mostly void of vegetation---barren desert except for a few small communities with green areas. In total we climbed 1250 meters during the day to lose 250 meters during the day. Headwinds during the afternoon slowed me down and overall, it was a tiring day.
DAY 52
Monday September 24
Mountain camp to Ulugqat
70 km
Mountain valley camp
We enter China today for the second half of our trip. It is the best appearing and best operated border point since we began our trip.
The cold wind blew all night and made many uncomfortable. Wake-up temps were around -5 degrees C and water bottles were frozen. There was a lot of shivering and dancing in place while consuming the traditional morning porridge, and we waited in vain for the sun to rise above the mountains prior to departure.
On the road, the sun competed with the mountains for brief appearances and with the riding energy, gradually my 3 layers of clothing won over the cold. My bike became my magic carpet as I floated up, down, switchbacking and zig-zagging on this new platform called pavement…and smooth it was!
The mountain canyons and the shadows and the distant snow-covered peaks, climbing to 4000 meters, presented a vista of never ending visual excitement.
We crossed the Karabel Pass at 2900 meters on this road of silk, and worked our way past a Kyrgyzstan departure check point to several border entry points for China to make it to camp at 2550 meters, in time for a pleasant scrub in a cold river and other chores.
DAY 51
Sunday Sept 23
Sari Tash to mountain camp 58 km
Spent the night on a floor mattress with 6 others in a room to keep warm. Woke up to a cold morning, bikes snow covered and a winter landscape. I donned 3 layers of clothing. Only about 12 of 45 riders rode bikes today, fearing the weather and road conditions.
The road was a rock quarry and it was hard to get above 12 kmph, but the scenery, the snow covered peaks and the soaring valleys were spectacular, making this 360 degree mountain vista of snow-covered peaks and valleys a classic ride. The only way of enjoying the vista was to stop and look, for taking your attention away from the road while riding meant trouble.
At lunch the winds were strong and cold. The crew found an old construction shack for shelter. Considering the weather and terrain, our camp site destination was changed so the distance became 58 km instead of 80 km.
Regardless, it was another struggle after lunch, over another 3600 meter pass (we were much higher this time as we started at 3100 meters), then a gnarly rock-infested descent to 2700 meters and a border check point. It was bone-jarring, very slow going and it was very tough on the hands which were consistently on the brakes for an hour.
Camp was in a mountain meadow just after the Kryzykistan check point, and it was pleasant in the sun all afternoon although cool in the wind, until sundown when I headed for the tent. At least it did not snow…so far! Good night………..burrrr!!
DAY 50
Saturday Sept 22
Mountain Camp to Sari Tash 82 km
Yurt and 3 room chalet and tents
It’s the big day. The ascent to the Taldyk Pass at 3600 meters. Spent hours sorting tubes last night to prevent more bad tire days and getting ready for a fresh start. My efforts were questionable. Checked the bike at breakfast and the tire I changed is flat again. So getting going for the big day was disrupted by an anxiety attack.
The morning ride was sweet. Great canyon scenery following a river through cattle and sheep country as we climbed steadily from 1800 meters to 2800 at lunch at 50 km.
Ate fast and hit the road for the pass. It turned out to be another classic struggle.
Although we had been climbing all day, the main ascent for the pass began at 58 km. First, I encountered construction, then km after km of ever steeper rocky road
